Yosemite National Park Guide
So you’re heading to Yosemite National Park? Great choice! No doubt you’ve been drawn here by the awe-inspiring views of Yosemite Valley, with its magnificent waterfalls and jaw-dropping granite domes. The options are nearly endless: you could spend weeks here and not even scratch the surface. So where do you even begin?
When to Visit
Memorial Day through Labor Day is going to be the busiest time of year in the park; at peak season, there can be over 14,000 people in the valley, and I can assure you, there’s not enough camping, lodging, or parking for everyone. The park is open year round though, and each season has its own pros and cons: spring and early summer is when the park’s famous waterfalls will be roaring, but you risk big crowds and high temps. Fall is cooler, less crowded, but those waterfalls will be down to a trickle, if anything. Winter is cold, but snow on Yosemite’s domes and mountains makes them even more beautiful.
How to Get There
If you don't already know, Yosemite is in California's Sierra Nevada Mountain range, nearly in the center of this giant state. For those of you flying in, Fresno is the closest city with a major airport, around an hour from the park's entrance. San Francisco, Oakland, Sacramento, and Reno are also close, at around two and a half to three hours from park entrances. If it's your first time though, do yourself a favor and enter from the Wawona entrance to the south. Seeing Tunnel View for the first time from this direction is unforgettable. One thing to remember is that getting to Yosemite Valley (the park's hub) will likely take at least another hour from any entrance point.
Things to Do in Yosemite National Park
Your options here are limitless, whether you only have a couple days and want to see some of Yosemite’s most-famous views, or are doing an extended stay and want to toss a few day hikes, you’ll want to know some of the best sights to see and things to do. For first time visitors, I recommend entering through the south entrance via CA-41 N, as your first view of the valley from this route is sure to leave you breathless.
Mariposa Grove
Time: 30 minutes - 2 hours.
Distance: .3 - 2 miles.
Like it’s national park cousins to the south, Yosemite is home to groves of giant sequoia trees, and the one you don’t want to miss is the Mariposa Grove. Located near the south entrance, the Mariposa Grove is home to over 500 of these gigantic trees. Only naturally found on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada mountains, they are some of the largest trees on Earth. The Grizzly Giant may very well be the feature tree of the grove, and a 2 mile loop trail will take you to this 2,700 year old, 209 foot tall behemoth (about as tall as the Statue of Liberty), as well as the California Tunnel Tree (yes, you can walk through it). The .3 mile long Big Trees Loop is a shorter experience, still with plenty of these living giants to marvel at. The small parking lot at the grove is reserved for handicapped persons only, so you'll want to catch the shuttle from the Mariposa Grove Welcome Plaza located just off of CA-41 N.
The Grizzly Giant, Mariposa Grove's premiere sequoia.
Tunnel View
Time: 10 - 15 minutes.
Distance: 60 - 120 seconds from the parking lot.
Taking Wawona Road from CA-41 N or Mariposa Grove may not present the classic Yosemite views you’ve been waiting for--but you’ll get there after about 50 minutes of driving. Along the way, you’ll pass the road for Glacier Point, but save that for later. Shortly after, you’ll drive through the Wawona Tunnel, and this is where it happens: emerging from the tunnel, Yosemite Valley is in front of you in all of its glory, and the tunnel view is one of the best, and most famous. Immediately upon exiting the tunnel, you have your choice of a parking lot on either the right or left--but the left is where the overlook is. El Capitan on the left, Half Dome off in the distance, the pine forest on the valley floor below, and Bridalveil Falls flowing to the right, it’s comparable to Rivendell from Lord of the Rings. This spot has been photographed countless times, and you should take a photo too--and what a great jumping off point for Yosemite Valley.
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Hi there, I'm Dan: videographer, travel-addict, and beer-lover. I left corporate life behind to start my own video business and travel the world. Want to know more about me and Dan Treks?
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Tunnel View.
Valley Loop
Time: 1 - 7 hours (depending on where you start and how much you choose to do).
Distance: 11.5 miles.
No matter what time of year you go to Yosemite, you’re going to want to arrive early. Not only to find a parking spot in Yosemite Village, but the valley is absolutely spectacular in the light of sunrise (and sunset). 11.5 miles may sound daunting, but this is mostly flat, paved terrain and no one is making you do the whole thing. You can begin by taking the shuttle from near the village and visitor center to Lower Yosemite Falls (shuttle stop #6), or even just start from the visitor center. The trail leads past some of Yosemite Valley’s greatest sights of waterfalls, the Merced River, El Capitan, vast meadows, and more. If you want to see things a little quicker, a bike trail follows much of the loop as well. Bikes can be rented at Yosemite Valley Lodge or in Curry Village.
The valley loop is a great way to see some of Yosemite Valley's best sights.
Yosemite Falls
Time: 1 hour for Lower, 6-8 for Upper.
Distance: 1 mile for Lower, 7.2 miles for Upper.
At 2,425 feet, Yosemite Falls are North America’s tallest and arguably Yosemite’s grandest. The falls are best viewed in spring and early summer, when the runoff from snowmelt makes them roar. By the end of summer, they’re likely to be down to a trickle, if anything at all.
Lower Yosemite Falls falls are reached by a simple, flat one mile long paved trail from the Valley Loop, where you’ll get great, up close views. If you’re going during peak-viewing season, be prepared to get wet the closer you get.
Lower Yosemite Falls (above) and both the Upper and Lower Falls (below).
As for Upper Yosemite Falls, you can see it from the Lower Falls Trail or nearby Sentinel Meadow, but if you want to get closer, it’s actually possible to hike to the top! The trail for the Upper Falls start near Camp 4, which is shuttle stop #7. At 7.2 miles long round trip and a gain of about 2,700 feet of elevation, this is a fairly strenuous hike. It immediately begins with numerous switchbacks through the forest, before the tree line levels off a bit, and now puts you on switchback after switchback in the open. The higher you get, the better the views of Yosemite Valley and the Upper Falls themselves get. The last portion of the hike is quite steep, but you’re rewarded with a breathtaking view of the valley below and the falls from the top. If you’ve still got some strength left in your legs and you started your hike early, while you’re up there, considering taking a stroll to the top of one of Yosemite’s most iconic formations...
El Capitan
Time: 12 hours to hike to the top via Upper Yosemite Falls trail.
Distance: 15 miles via Upper Yosemite Falls trail.
Massive and towering with it’s sheer granite walls, a Mecca for rock climbers around the world and famed iMac default background, El Capitan is a staple of Yosemite Valley. Whether from Tunnel View, or Valley View (below), it’s hard to find a bad view of this monolith. If you want a view of the climbers heading up to the top, stop by the El Capitan Meadow--and bring a pair of binoculars too. If the top of El Cap is calling your name but you have no rock climbing experience much like myself, you can actually hike up there. Follow the same trail for Yosemite Falls (above), but once reaching the top, follow the signs for El Capitan. If you plan on doing this, start early--as it’s about a 15 mile round trip to the top of El Cap and back!
El Capitan from the valley floor.
Bridalveil Falls
Time: 15 minutes.
Distance: .5 miles.
Remember that waterfall you saw from Tunnel View? That’s Bridalveil Falls, and unlike some of the others in Yosemite Valley, this one flows year round! There’s a parking area for Bridalveil Falls, but like all of the valley’s major attractions, parking is limited and the lot will fill quickly. A .5 mile long paved trail leads to the base of the falls; expect to get wet during the spring and early summer for the mist. In the fall and spring around 4:00pm, you’re likely to see a rainbow appear near the bottom of the falls, created by the late, afternoon sun.
Bridalveil Falls up close.
Mirror Lake
Time: 1 - 3 hours.
Distance: 2 - 5 miles.
Mirror Lake is true to its name: a crystal clear body of water that provides almost perfect reflections of the scenery around it, if you go in the spring that is. Otherwise, it’s likely to be bone dry, and Mirror Lake bed just isn’t quite as intriguing. From shuttle stop #17, it’s two miles round trip to the lake and back, or five miles if you opt to hike the loop all the way around it.
Mirror Lake is mostly dry by the summer.
Yosemite National Park Cinematic Video
See the grandeur of Yosemite Falls, the sheer walls of El Capitan, the towering sequoias of Mariposa Grove, the Mist Trail, high country, and so much more in this cinematic video of Yosemite National Park.
Glacier Point
Time: 40 minute drive from Yosemite Valley/6-8 hours via Four Mile Trail.
Distance: N/A from parking lot/9.6 miles via Four Mile Trail.
Remember that turn off for Glacier Point I mentioned in the Tunnel View section? No? Well, no matter. Climbing back up Wawona Road from the way you came in, now turn left onto Glacier Point Road. It's about 40 minutes of driving time--but it’s worth it for one of Yosemite’s best views. First things first, you'll want to pull off at Washburn Point, located on your right, about .8 miles before the Glacier Point parking lot--it's a great first view of what the valley looks like from up here. As for Glacier Point, there’s ample parking up here, but it’s definitely a popular spot, especially for sunset--and for good reason. Half Dome dominates your view as you look down on the valley below--all around you, really. Not only can you spot Yosemite Falls from here as well, but two newcomers off to the right of Half Dome: Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls. Stick around for sunset, and you’ll be treated to a show as the last golden rays of sun are drawn up on the rocks like a curtain. If you’d rather hike to Glacier Point (and why? You’re making all of us that drove up look bad), the Four Mile Trail from the valley floor will take you up here too, but at 9.6 miles roundtrip, plan on it taking at least six hours if not more. For more on Glacier Point, click here.
Washburn Point with Half Dome, and the waterfalls of the Mist Trail to it's right.
Sunset and alpenglow on Half Dome from Glacier Point.
The Mist Trail
Time: 2-3 hours to the top of Vernal Fall/5-6 hours to the top of Nevada Fall.
Distance: 2.4 miles for Vernal Falls/5.4 miles for Nevada Fall.
So those two new waterfalls you spotted from Glacier Point--want to see them up close? Then make your way to the Mist Trail, near Curry Village. This trail is a starting point for some of the best hikes in the park, including Vernal Falls, Nevada Falls, the John Muir Trail, Half Dome, and Cloud’s Rest--but more on some of these later. Shuttle stop #16 at Happy Isles will bring you close, though it’s possible to park in the nearby lot, or in the Curry Village parking lot of you arrive early.
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It’s a 2.4 mile round trip hike to the top of Vernal Fall via the Mist Trail, which doesn’t sound too bad, until you realize half of it is entirely uphill. If you’re going during the spring and early summer, you’re going to find out why this is called the Mist Trail too. A very steep and strenuous staircase is built into the rock next to Vernal Falls, and when the falls are really flowing, expect to get soaked (hope you packed your poncho!). A railing at the top protects any would be waterfall jumpers, but when the river is flowing at its heaviest, sometimes it extends past the railing. The Mist trail is actually one of the deadliest in Yosemite, because visitors tend to ignore the warning signs and test the current of the river a bit further upstream (it’s a lot stronger than it looks). Next thing you know, you’re taking a trip over the falls, and probably ruining the rest of your vacation (and your life).
Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall.
So one waterfall on this trail wasn’t enough for you? Well keep on going up then, through even more switchbacks and steep stone staircases. 5.4 miles round trip puts you at the top of Nevada Fall, another Yosemite spectacle. Plummeting 594 feet down, it’s best views come in the spring and early summer, though expect some water over these falls at all times of the year.
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Should you not feel like getting drenched again, or don’t feel like walking that slippery staircase back down past Vernal Falls, the John Muir Trail can also get you back down from Nevada Falls. You’ll get some different views and stay dry, though with the addition of an extra 1.5 miles. For more on the Mist Trail, click here.
Half Dome (Permit required)
Time: 10-14 hours.
Distance: 14 miles.
So you’ve probably seen this 5,000 foot beast from just about all of Yosemite Valley’s viewpoints. If you’ve been near it at night, you’ve probably noticed the twinkling lights from the adventurous (or, insane) climbers sleeping on the side of it. Did you know you can hike to its summit though? It’s at least a 14 mile round trip hike to the top though, with a few thousand feet of elevation gain. The final portion involves climbing up its backside via a pair of steel cables, hauling yourself up, and at one point being nearly vertical. Did I mention you need a permit to hike it too? Oh, and more than a few unfortunate hikers have fallen to their deaths here.
Half Dome towers over Yosemite Valley.
Half Dome is a challenge, there’s no sugarcoating it--a challenge a lot of people like to take on, whether they’re prepared or not. That’s why the park instituted a permit system back in 2012. When the cables are up between late May and early October, you’ll need a permit to go to the top. 300 are issued each day, with 225 being awarded via an online lottery that you can apply for anytime during the month of March, if you know your dates ahead of time. Otherwise, about 50 more are awarded by applying online two days before your desired hiking date. While not as exclusive as the Wave in Arizona, it can be tough to snag a permit for Half Dome, especially in the busier months. Following the same route via the Mist Trail, past both Vernal and Nevada Falls and then beyond, Half Dome is a dangerous, challenging, and extremely rewarding adventure. If you’re interested in hiking it, check out my guide and experience here.
The cables up Half Dome: not for the faint of heart.
Yosemite & Half Dome Cables Video Guide
Plan your Yosemite adventure with this video guide: see the Valley, learn how to hike the Mist Trail, to the top of Yosemite Falls, and join me as I teach you how to make it to the top of one of the park's most famous attractions: Half Dome!
Tioga Road
Time: Varies.
Distance: Varies.
Yosemite Valley might be the most famous (and crowded) part of the park, but if you're visiting in the summer and have the time, a trip to the high country is well worth it along Highway 120: Tioga Road. You could easily do an entire separate page on things to do and see up here, but for now, we'll just stick with some of the highlights, starting with the Tuolumne Grove of sequoias: located at the beginning of Tioga Road, this grove is reached via a moderate 2.5 mile roundtrip trail, and while it has fewer spectacular trees than Mariposa Grove, it's main attraction is the remains of a fallen tunnel tree that you can walk through.
Tunnel tree remains in Tuolumne Grove. Credit: Dcrjsr.
No trip to the high country would be complete without a stop at Tenaya Lake, where some of the bluest water you'll see is only made better by the slate granite domes that surround it. A relatively flat 2.5 mile trail goes around the lake, though if you'd rather venture into the water itself, it's open to kayaks and canoes. Nearby Sunrise Lakes is also where a network of trails begins, including the route to the spectacular Cloud's Rest--but more on that hike below.
Tenaya Lake.
No trip up Tioga Road would be complete without a stop at Tuolumne Meadows, at an elevation of 8,600 feet, it's also one of the highest alpine meadows around. The Tuolumne River meanders through the landscape, while even more granite domes and snow-capped peaks dot the background. There's a handful of pull offs and short paths to explore the meadow even more, and you'll also find a seasonal visitor center, lodge, and campground here as well. Tioga Road is closed, generally from November through May, but can open earlier depending on the amount of snowpack. For road status, click here.
Tuolumne Meadows in the spring.
Cloud’s Rest
Time: 8-10 hours via Tenaya Lake/14-16 hours via the Mist Trail.
Distance: 14.5 miles via Tenaya Lake/20 miles via the Mist Trail.
So Half Dome is a lot to take in, right? But you still want a long day hike with a great payout at the end, naturally. Half Dome is about 14 miles round trip to the top, but what’s Cloud’s Rest though? Ah, only 20 miles--20 miles?! If you’re considering this one as a day hike and not a backpacking excursion, it's probably best to start from Tenaya Lake/Sunrise Lakes Trailhead along Tioga Road, a little over an hours drive from the valley; it reduces the distance down to about 14 miles total. If Half Dome is like Angel’s Landing in Zion National Park, then Cloud’s Rest is Observation Point. By that I mean this less popular trail can provide you with what is arguably an even better, and lesser seen view of the park. Cloud’s Rest follows the same route up the Mist Trail as Half Dome, but eventually you’ll reach a crossroads to either spot. Much like Angel’s Landing in Zion, near the end of Cloud’s Rest you’ll find yourself walking across a narrow spine of rock to reach the summit, but without the added security of chains to hold onto. A spectacular view of the back of Half Dome, and other parts of the valley awaits you from this summit. With a keen eye, you can spot the Half Dome climbers struggling up the cables, and laugh at them from your even higher vantage point.
Cloud's Rest might have the best view of Yosemite Valley from its backside. Credit: Juliavbarbara.
Hetch Hetchy
Time: Varies.
Distance: Varies.
One of the least-visited parts of Yosemite, Hetch Hetchy once matched the splendor of Yosemite Valley, until it was dammed and a reservoir created in the early 20th century. Despite the valley floor being lost, visitors are still able to visit, walk on top of the O’Shaughnessy Dam, and find a handful of far less-frequented trails. The blue waters of the reservoir might look appealing, but are strictly off limits as the water here supplies the city of San Francisco. Hetch Hetchy is about an hour's drive from Yosemite Valley, reached via the Evergreen Road through Stanislaus National Forest, near the western entrance to the park.
Hetch Hetchy Valley in 1908 before being dammed (above) and then today (below).
Where to Stay in Yosemite National Park
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Hotels
You’re not popping in for a day and then leaving, right? Right. So, you’ll need a place to stay. The Yosemite Valley Lodge and the Ahwahnee Hotel are your best bets if you fancy the hotel experience while staying in the valley, but prepare to not only reserve your rooms well in advance, but to pay a premium (we’re talking $300 - $600/night) for them too. The Wawona Hotel is also within the park, but outside the valley and still quite pricey. If those are full but you're dying for the hotel experience, the Evergreen Lodge and Rush Creek Lodge are about an hour west of Yosemite Valley outside park boundaries. There are also a handful of private residence Airbnb's within the park itself near Wawona. To book a lodge in the park, click here.
The Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite Valley.
Cabins/Glamping
Curry Village features a number of canvas tent-cabins. While not fancy, you're one step above traditional camping here with beds and electrical lightning. On average they cost $140.00 per night and up. To book, click here.
Tent cabins in Curry Village.
Camping
Yosemite features a number of campgrounds, and all are extremely popular and difficult to get a site at. Upper, Lower, and North Pines Campgrounds are located in Yosemite Valley, and can be reserved up to five months in advance; sites go very quickly on the first day(s) they are reservable. Crane Flat Campground is about 30 minutes from the valley, but can also be reserved five months in advance. Otherwise, you're limited to first-come-first-serve campgrounds outside the valley like Bridalveil Creek and Tamarack Flat, among about six others. These will fill quickly during peak times, and are often seasonal, not opening until mid-summer. If you're not having any luck getting a site within the park, there are several campgrounds in nearby Stanislaus National Forest, such as Dimond O and Lost Claim. Each have a number of sites that can be reserved in advance, and others that are first-come-first-serve. Visit Recreation.gov to book campsites within the park or the national forest.