Half Dome Hiking Guide
Half Dome is one of the most prominent features in Yosemite National Park, towering 5,000 feet above the valley floor. Making it to the top is a challenge, privilege, and one of the most rewarding hikes this park has to offer. At 14 miles long round trip, winding past some of Yosemite’s most spectacular views, the final ascent up 400 feet of steel cables staked into Half Dome’s backside has become famous for all the right, as well as all the wrong reasons.
So you wanna hike Half Dome? Great, so do about 1,000 other people every day during peak season. That’s why the good folks at Yosemite instituted a permit system capping it at 300 people per day. Somehow, someway, I was lucky enough to be one of those 300 lucky folks who snagged a permit and decided to hike this thing.
Glacier Point provides a great view of Half Dome, as well as the trail to the summit, and sights along the way.
Safety
And you’re dying to do it, right? Good! Because this is the trail in Yosemite you’re most likely to die on! Hikers have died taking pictures for Instagram in the river right before a waterfall, slipping and falling off Half Dome, or being struck by lightning--over 60 of Yosemite’s deaths have occurred on this hike. I don’t mean to make light of anyone’s death; a hiker died in a tragic fall the week before I was due to make my climb to the top, which made me even more cautious. This is no ordinary hike, and the dangers are real, but with proper preparation and the right precautions, you can have a successful trip to the top.
Weather
If you check the weather before you hike and it shows rain or thunderstorms, don’t go! Does it suck? Sure does! You came all this way and were one of the lucky few to get a Half Dome permit and now you’re just going to give it up? You should, because it’s not worth dying over--I’ve never been dead before, but I haven’t heard good things.
You hike all the way up on a clear, sunny day and finally make it to the cables when you notice rain clouds in the distance. That seems unlikely, right? Unfortunately, no--rain and thunder, especially in the summer, can strike out of nowhere in Yosemite Valley, as is common in mountainous areas. It happened to me in Glacier National Park on what was supposed to be a sunny day, and was easily the most terrifying experience of my life. It’s happened to other people too, while climbing Half Dome, where even just a light rain has led to tragedy.
Fitness
It’s a minimum 14 mile hike, and about half of that is uphill; the last 400 feet up the cables is almost vertically uphill in some spots. I’m not an athlete (several intramural championships aside), and I was about 15 pounds overweight when I climbed Half Dome, but I spent the better part of two months preparing myself for the trip the best I could. My point is, you probably know your own body and what you’re actually capable of doing. This is a ten hour minimum hike, and it is strenuous, so be prepared physically for it.
Speaking of that last 400 feet uphill, climbing the cables will require you to have some good upper body strength. The cables are staked to wooden slats, which are generally about 10 to 15 feet apart from one another; not close enough for a single step. The granite under your feet has been worn smooth by over 100 years of people climbing this route, so you’re relying on your arms to hoist you between beams more than you are on your feet.
Half Dome rises 4,737 feet above the floor of Yosemite Valley.
What to Bring for Half Dome
Pack
You'll want a pack big enough to carry all of the above goodies, and one with good support throughout so you’re as comfortable as possible. The crappy drawstring sack pack you won at the job fair isn’t going to cut it. This thing is going to be on your back for over half a day, so choose wisely.
Food and Water
Four to five liters of water per person are recommended for hiking Half Dome. There is one refill station about after about a mile on the trail, and your next option after that is to refill your bottles in the river and treat the water for safe consumption, but that isn’t an option you’ll have for the entirety of this hike. You’ll want to bring an ample amount of food too, whether that’s an excessive amount of cliff bars, trail mix--whatever, you’re going to be hiking 14 miles in 10 to 12 hours, so plan accordingly so you don’t pass out.
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Gloves
You'll also want a pair of gloves, not your winter mittens, but ones with a rubber grip. Whether they’re some nice gardening gloves (my choice), professional hiking gloves (you athlete), or rubber kitchen gloves (cause I can’t get the pickle jar open sometimes), you’ll want something with grip on them for the cables--they’re made of steel, so not only will they shred your hands if you’re not wearing gloves, but wearing a pair will make them easier to hang onto. Hikers are known to leave their used gloves at the bottom of the cables; don’t do this, it’s a stain on the landscape and environment, and park rangers are beginning to crack down on it. Also, rats have been known to nest in them; so unless you’re comfortable wearing someone else’s very sweaty, potentially rat-poop-filled gloves, or are in the market for a new rat (you’re just not, okay?), bring and pack out your own gloves.
About Me
Hi there, I'm Dan: videographer, travel-addict, and beer-lover. I left corporate life behind to start my own video business and travel the world. Want to know more about me and Dan Treks?
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Hiking Boots
Running sneakers and crocs won’t cut it, you really need a good pair of hiking boots with good grip on the bottom. Much of the trail is steep and slippery even before you reach the cables, the subdome especially. Going up the cables, it’s even worse, so do yourself a favor and don’t skimp out on a good pair of hikers.
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Permit
The park issues 300 permits a day for Half Dome, 225 are awarded via an online lottery in the spring. With your date(s) in mind, you can apply for one of these permits anytime during the month of March, for a group of up to six people. If you fail to win a permit here, don’t know your dates, or like living on the edge and decide to wing it, around 50 more (give or take) are reserved for another online lottery that takes place two days before your desired date. That means if you want to hike Half Dome on June 6th, you have to apply online no later than June 4th by 1:00pm pacific time; results are usually e-mailed out a couple hours after the deadline. As for the other 25 permits, they’re usually reserved for climbers and overnight backpackers. If 25 people don’t apply for them, they’re rolled into the daily lottery.
Don't forget your permit.
Optional: Harness
I know nothing about mountain climbing; maybe someday I’ll try it out, but right now I’ve got nothing. That being said, you’re allowed to use a harness and clip yourself from post to post while going up the cables. If this is something you know how to do, then have at it.
Also Optional: Rain Poncho
No, not in case it rains, we went over that already. If you take the Mist Trail during spring or early summer past Vernal Falls, you’re liable to get wet. If you’re not into that, you can either take the longer John Muir Trail to the top and around the falls, or pack a poncho.
All of this isn’t meant to be overwhelmingly frightening, but more to best prepare you for this amazing hike--and the entire thing from start to finish is amazing, taking you through tall trees, past several absolutely beautiful waterfalls, and nearly to the top of the park itself. It’s a challenge, but certainly doable if you prepare yourself and take all of the necessary precautions.
The Way Up Half Dome (and back down)
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Hiking to the top of Half Dome and back is at least 14 miles, a little more if you choose to drive and park near the trail in either the main lot, or at Curry Village. You’ll want to start very early (we started at 6:30am) as it generally takes people 10 to 14 hours to complete, and no one wants to get stuck hiking down in the dark.
The Mist Trail
Begin the hike at the Mist Trail, near the Happy Isles Nature Center (Shuttle stop #16). The first mile or so is inclined, but paved, until you make it to the Vernal Fall footbridge. This will be your last chance for a proper water filling station, so make the most of it. If you’re hiking during the spring or early summer, there’s a good chance that Vernal Fall will be roaring, and you’ll find out where the Mist Trail gets its name from. The staircase on the trail next to Vernal Fall is steep, and will likely be getting doused in water from the falls. Now would be a good time to put that poncho on. Alternatively, you can take the John Muir Trail near the Vernal Fall footbridge. This will pop you out near the top of Nevada Fall and back onto the Half Dome trail, keeping you dry, but adding an additional 1.5 miles on.
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Vernal Fall
Yosemite is famous for its waterfalls, and this one is spectacular! Hopefully you chose the Mist Trail route for the ascent at least, because you don’t want to miss this one. Climb the stairs on the trail to the top, and take a good, but cautious look over the railing once you’re up there. Continue on, and the trail flattens for a bit, running along the seemingly-calm Merced River. This is where people are often tempted to take a dip, or jump in and pose for a picture. The river is deceiving, and a number of people have been swept over Vernal Fall since the current is far stronger than they’re led to believe.
The flow of Vernal Fall depends on the time of the year.
Nevada Fall
The trail turns into switchbacks once again, and you’re likely to begin glimpsing Nevada Fall long before you reach the top of it. The trail eventually runs right alongside it though, so you’ll have plenty of places for photo ops or to take a break. Reaching the top, you’ll find your last opportunity to use a proper (as far as a pit toilet goes) bathroom; this is also where the John Muir Trail reconnects. A short detour will take you to the overlook for Nevada Fall, but if you’re short on time, keep on going towards Half Dome--you’re only about 2.7 miles in at this point.
Nevada Fall.
Trek to the Subdome
Once past Nevada Fall, you still have a ways to go, but the trail gets easier, flattening for a bit, before gradually inclining. Passing Little Yosemite Valley, you eventually head into the forest, where you remain for much of the hike until the subdome. The shade is a welcome relief here, with much of the previous part of the hike being exposed. While still beautiful in its own right, there isn’t quite as much to see until you get closer to the subdome, so hunker down and keep going. As the tree line starts to thin, Half Dome will come into closer view, and you might even be able to catch a glimpse of hikers on the cables.
Getting closer.
The Subdome
Easily my least favorite part of the hike--seriously, the subdome is brutal: it’s steep, poorly marked, and completely exposed the entire way. Once you complete it, then you have to climb the cables. Before you begin the subdome, a ranger will check your permit, and give your group the rundown on cables rules and etiquette. The trail begins as a steep set of stairs, before devolving into climbing over smooth, rounded, inclined granite. Much like the cables, this rock has been worn down over decades of use, making it relatively smooth; except here you don’t have the luxury of the cables to hold on to, so tread carefully. It finally leaves out and the back of Half Dome and the cables come into view: the main event.
Stairs are only a small part of the subdome: most of it involves scrambling up smooth granite.
The Half Dome Cables
Take a water break and rest up for a hot minute if you need to. The cables can look pretty intimidating from the bottom, especially the portion further up where they really do appear to be bolted into a vertical cliff. Collect your courage, put your gloves on, and secure your belongings: your water bottle, your sunglasses, your waifu body-pillow--secure all of it inside of or to your pack. Otherwise, there’s a solid chance it’s gonna take a trip over the edge of Half Dome as you make your way up, or into the face of the climber behind you, increasing their chances of taking a trip over the edge of Half Dome--it’s not a fun trip.
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Slow and steady wins the race here. While the cables are staked into wooden slats, they’re not close enough together for a single step, meaning you’ll have to pull yourself up to the next slat. A lot of people take breaks between each section of the cables, and it's up to you if you climb by placing your hands on each cable, or both on the one closest to you. Patience really is key, which can be tough if you’re impatient, like me. The cables are essentially a one-way path that has to be two-way; that means people are coming down the same route that you’re going up, and there’s going to be traffic jams. You’ll learn the system quickly though when you meet a hiker going the opposite way; call out to each other if you’d like to come up, or if they’d like to come down--if they don’t ask you first. Push yourself off to the side, but NOT outside of the cables, and let them pass, or pass them yourself. A brief moment of uncomfortable closeness, and you’ll be on your way--and really, that’s the process to get you to the top. Keep calm, a firm grip on the cables, mind your footing and others around you, and you’ll find yourself at the summit in no time.
It's a long way to the top. Actually, it's about 500 feet, and takes around 20 - 30 minutes.
The Summit
You’ll notice the cables and terrain begin to level out, and finally, end all together. Congratulations! You made it! You’re on top of the world! Just kidding, no you’re not, there’s definitely higher places, but making it to the top of Half Dome is still quite the accomplishment. Hopefully you were able to squeeze a beer or two into your pack to celebrate--don’t leave the can up there though. You’re free to walk around, take in the views of Yosemite Valley from up high, and the amazing views of the canyons behind Half Dome itself. Grab a photo on the edge (known as the Visor) that everyone likes to pose on with the valley in the background--I’m not being sarcastic either, do it, it’s awesome. Once you’ve had your fill (probably a good idea to eat some lunch up here too), it’s time to make your descent. Remember how long it took to get up here from the start of the trail? Great! You get to do that all over again, once you go down these cables, of course.
Why I thought hands-on-my-hips was a good pose, I'll never know.
The Journey Home
The jury is out on whether it’s easier to go up or back down the cables. One thing for sure though, you’ll want to go down backwards: what psycho wants that vertical view in front of them while descending anyways? Follow the same etiquette you did going up, and then retrace your steps. Honestly, it’s liable to get boring, and you’ll just want the hike to be over with. It’s worth it though, for the reward of completing such a challenge. The only potential deviation from the route up is taking the John Muir Trail back down this time, if you’d like to avoid those slippery steps next to Vernal Falls, or feel like seeing a different view--at the cost of an additional 1.5 miles. If you’re descending in the late afternoon (and you should be, you don’t want to be stuck anywhere up here after dark), there’s a solid chance of catching a rainbow from the late sun’s light in the mist of Vernal Falls.
That’s it! Hopefully you timed yourself and can stop the clock once you’ve made it to the bottom. Well done! Treat yourself to a beer at the lodge, or buy yourself an “I Made it to the Top” tin from the market like I did. Tacky? Maybe, but I’m proud of that chintzy piece of sheet metal. Half Dome isn’t for everyone--it's a pretty intense challenge, and while not the hardest hike on planet earth, it’s easily the hardest I’ve ever done and the one I’m most proud of completing. Half Dome might not be your thing, and that's cool too--there's plenty more to do and see in Yosemite. If you do make the trek up though, it's one you're not soon to forget.
